I am so sad to say that my sweet Gran Laird passed away on September 16th. She had severe dementia and just hadn't been doing well for a few weeks. She slipped away at the Peebles Nursing home very early in the morning. I found out right before getting on a bus to go on a field trip for my Interpreting the Landscape course. Pretending to be interested in rocks and geology after getting news like that is super challenging and just sucky in general.
Dad came back to Edinburgh- about 2 weeks after he had just been here! Of course it was great to see him again and to catch up with people in my family that I don't see every much. It is a shame that it takes a funeral to bring people together.
This sad day did inspire a little trip down memory lane though, as the passing of people tends to do. Dad and I spent an afternoon in Stock Bridge where both my Granny and my Dad grew up. My Granny's father was a tailor who owned a large house in Raeburn Place. His shop was in the front of the house. My Granny lived in that house with her father for a significant chunk of her life, even after she had married my Grandpa. My Dad and his brother Lindsay lived in that house too. I am told that it had a gorgeous big back yard, with a grand tree that my Dad would climb. This is the house that my Granny always talked about during her dementia. As far as she was concerned, she still lived in that house.
Unfortunately, the house is no longer there. It was demolished and turned into a Scotmid Co-op. It is heart breaking to lose a piece of personal history- all in the name of progress. But the tree that Dad used to climb is still in the back. The rest of the street apparently hasn't changed much though. Dad was astonished to find the fish monger and the barber shop still there- still with the same names!
We also spent some time in a park that Dad used to play in as a child. He told me the story of how he had been showing off on his bike one day as he was riding down the hill and didn't turn in time. Instead he went flying into the pond with his bike! We found the exact spot he had gone for an impromptu swim. A nice afternoon at the Edinburgh Botanical Gardens was also a great back drop to remember my Granny. She would have had something to say about the massive crow that help himself to some lunch!
I will miss my Granny dearly. She was a kind and loving woman. I just wish I had gotten to know her better. But it just makes the time I spent with her a few weeks earlier even more valuable. So grateful I was here.
What an amazing trip and way to start an MSc! And no midges!! The map above shows the Spey river basin. We paddled the northern half and right into the sea. The trip was 8 days and involved 2 days practicing paddling skills in canoes, kayaks and seas kayaks at the University's outdoor center called Firbush, which is on the shore of Loch Tay. Its was an absolutely gorgeous location and a perfect place to learn and practice. The weather was pretty miserable these two days, but being soaking wet all the time just made the idea of accidently dumping into the water so much easier to deal with! Although, I have to say, I did not go in once! I did however, manage to strain my wrist fighting to get my canoe going in the right direction in crazy wind on the Loch. Nothing that drugs and a brace wouldn't fix though!
We then had two days at Woodlands which is an old Victorian house in the town of Kinguisse, that has been modified to house groups of students. From here we did a day trip on the Spey to practice our new paddling skills on moving water. It was such a cold rainy day but it was fabulous to be on the river! At night, we went to the local pub called the Tipsy Laird (no comments about this please!) to take in one last pint and some good music before heading down the river.
Each day down the river got more and more exciting. Dave, our guide was an encyclopedia of knowledge when it came to the Spey. He told us story after story about the people who own the land and the gillies who make a living from the rich people who fly fish. The social elite have staked their claim on the river and most made it very clear we were intruding on their day of fly-fishing. We had to paddle our butts off to stay clear of their lines. They just stood on the banks in their head to toe tweed giving us dirty looks, their land rovers standing by and small squat hound dogs running around. I was fully expecting to see Prince William out for a day of fishing, but unfortunately that never happened. He has more important things to do I imagine! Can you believe they pay about 10, 000 pounds to fish for a week! That is equivalent to about $20,000!! No fish is worth that kind of money in my opinion.
Pete, one of our lecturers, filled in the very rare moments that Dave was not talking with information about the geology and ecology of the areas we paddled through. Robbie, another lecturer, filled our evenings with lectures and various discussions about the environment. Camping in this country is sooooooooo different to Canada. With Scottish access laws, we were able to pull over and camp anywhere, which meant we shared a site with cows one night and essentially camped in someone's back yard another. Very strange.
The speed and volume of the river increased everyday we got closer to the sea. On the second last day, we were paddling some pretty impressive rapids. There was a very close call for my paddling partner and I coming through a big set of rapids- we nearly tipped over but JUST managed to stay upright. Unfortunately, I can't say the same for another group. There were three in the boat because Fran had also injured her wrist and couldn't paddle. The boat was not balanced very well and they went for a very cold swim. It was a good thing that we all practiced rescues!
About an hour after we rescued these three out of the river, another incident unfolded. We had been told to pull over to the bank so everyone could catch up. A girl named Jess was in the first boat to pull over and as she stepped out of the canoe a wave pushed the canoe over her ankle and broke it. My partner and I were the next to paddle up and all I saw was Jess collapsed on the ground wailing in a horrible fashion. We ended up splinting her leg on the side of the river, then ferrying her to the other side, carrying her up a huge hill to the road where the ambulance could pick her up! I say we, but I what I really mean is the guys did all this, while the rest of us waited patiently by the river in the sun!
The highlight for me though was paddling into the sea. It was a great ending to an incredible trip. Everyone was celebrating, jumping around and hugging when we got on shore. The trip was wonderful and a great opportunity to get to know my colleagues. We bonded and laughed our way down the river as we learned about the ecology, history and the crazy social traditions that define the river. We started out essentially as strangers and emerged into the sea as friends. The feeling of satisfaction and accomplishment was absolutely indescribable. It was a great start to what everyone knew was going to be an exciting year!
Thank you to Andy Scherk for some photos on this page!
Well, it’s just short of a month since I’ve been here. I suspect this will not be the only time I ask, “Where has the time gone?” I have generally filled my time with wandering the streets taking in the eclectic nature if the Edinburgh Fringe Festival- including a “show” by the Guinness Book of World Records holder for the most facial piercing. That was well…. educational! I’ve seen some really great shows and a HORRIBLE free comedy show that left me wishing I could get the two hours of my life back! But the city is just as gorgeous as I remember. Everything is so green!
I took the train last week to North Berwick, a small resort town, to take in the sea and sand. I have great memories of going there with my Mum and Granny and sitting on the beach eating ice cream cones. It was a gorgeous sunny day so I proceeded to do just the same thing. I even put my toes in the sea! Burrr!
Dad has been here for the past few days so we have had a chance to catch up and get all the boring logistics sorted out, such as setting up a bank account. However there have also been a couple of very funny moments. Unfortunately and in true fashion for my life, I just so happened to be the butt of the joke. Below are a few funny anecdotes that will stay with me forever.
During an amazing adventure such as this, it is wise to make every effort to stop and smell the roses. The most ideal (and literal) opportunity came along the other day whilst on a walk down my uncle’s street. I spotted a fist sized, blood red rose hanging over someone’s fence about a foot above my head. I pulled the stem and blossom down towards my nose expecting the most amazing fragrance.
Mother Nature’s gorgeous creation quickly deposited about an ounce of rainwater, up my nostrils and all over my face. Much to the amusement of my Dad and Uncle, I did not get to smell the rose. I wiped my face off and blew my nose all the way to the end of the street. Moral of the story: The intention to slow down and smell the roses may be met with unexpected results. However, sometimes what happens is much better and will provide a more memorable story and experience than the original plan! Hopefully this will remain true for the rest of my time here.
Another comical moment that occurred is really a lesson in the communication barriers that can occur with various accents. In a desire to reminisce and treat his family to dinner, Dad took my Uncle and I out to Café Royal, a very posh restaurant and bar that my Mum and him had visited several times in the past.
We had a delicious (and insanely expensive!) dinner served by a very charming Irish guy. To finish off a lovely dinner, I ordered a coffee with baileys, one of my favorite treats. What appeared however was not at all what I expected. I got the coffee all right, but the waiter proceeded to place a ramekin of some creamy white substance beside my cup.
In a highly confused state I politely asked what it was. “It’s what you ordered isn’t it? It’s mayonnaise.” He responded. With an amused look on my face, I proceeded to explain that no, I had ordered Baileys, pronouncing it in a way you would expect when speaking to someone from Mars. He continued to tell me that it was the strangest request he had ever heard, but he had tried his best not to judge. Not ever having been to Canada, how would he know what we like to put in our coffee! Funny!!
My Dad and I have also had the opportunity to visit with my Gran (Dad's Mum). She lives in Peebles close to my Uncle Lindsay and Aunt Marilyn. Gran has severe dementia and only has passing moments when she knows who you are. This is really difficult to accept, but just being here to take her for a walk down the river filled me up with gratitude. We have also visited my Mum's good friend Kate who was the first person who lives in Scotland to see me when I was born. We had a delicious lunch and and a good chat at her house one afternoon. Dad was also able to catch up with a bunch of his university friends. We had dinner at Bob's gorgeous house in Fife one night. Seeing Dad with his friends made me wonder if I will be sitting around a table in 30 years time reminiscing about the good old days with the people I meet here.
This brings me to the update about the whole reason I am here in the first place. University! I have just completed my orientation week and well, lets jut say I have been reminded that this is not a holiday!! The first day was filled with info about how to properly reference research to avoid being kicked out for plagiarism and we received a crash course using the library catalogue. Fun!!
But everyone in my program seems to be pretty awesome. There are 24 of us all together but only 9 in my avenue of focus. There is a great mix of people from all over the world too. A few Americans (of course) another Canadian from Nanaimo, a Japanese girl, a guy from Germany, another from the Netherlands, an Aussie and a girl from Greece who has already offered to show me around her home turf when we are finished! The rest are a combination of people coming from various parts of Scotland and England.
Despite the “jumping in with two feet” introduction we received and the general state of overwhelm everyone was feeling, I can’t help but wander around the Moray House of Education campus (my department of Uni) in awe knowing my Mum walked the same courtyards and halls. This is very much meant to be.
Tomorrow, we are all heading off on our first big adventure into the Scottish highlands for our Lochs and Rivers professional development course. We spend two days at Firbush to review paddling skills on Loch Tay. We will stay in the outdoor education residential center there where everything is provided, including, breakfast, a packed lunch for the day, a three-course dinner, a pub, a comfy bed and even someone to make it! Rough, I know!
The following 2 days will be spent at another residential site called Woodlands, a place we will visit at a few times over the next year. The last 4 days will be the descent of the Spey River, which eventually meets the sea at nearly the most northern point in Scotland. This will be good old-fashioned camping and expedition cooking. I couldn’t be more excited! As long as the midges, (the Scottish version of mosquitoes that make death by haggis look appealing) aren’t too bad. I am armed with bug spray, antihistamines, a raincoat and a warm sweater- or 5!
Next update when I return, no doubt with tales of Scottish history, getting really wet, getting tired, getting eaten alive by foreign bugs, getting to know the people who will keep me sane and insane in equally proportion this year and having the time of my life!
Saturday was my initiation into a social life in Edinburgh. Fiona, my cousin and her friend Claire arrived at my flat around 10:30pm with a few bottles of wine and tickets to a Late N Live comedy show. Late being a 1 am start time. That gave us lots of time to sit at my window sill, (which I have to say is my favorite part of the flat) to watch the mobs of people in the Grass market and enjoy the amazing fireworks display that mark the end of the Military Tattoo at the castle each night. There have been fireworks visible from my window every night but Saturday’s show was especially entertaining. Here is the view of the Grassmarket from my flat:
And a picture of my favourite window sill!
We wandered down the street to the Teviot, nicknamed the “Guilded Balloon” for the Festival, which happens to be one of the student unions. Now I say student union but what I really mean is castle!! Beside it, Fiona pointed out the building I would graduate in. Hmmmm….if I’m drunk like this the whole time, there might not be a graduation.
The show was really good (despite the American comedian discussing his country's new president –Damn! Just can’t escape it!). It finished around 3:30 am, only to be followed by a super fun Ska band, which kept us dancing until about 5:00 am. Outside the castle was a conveniently placed Creperie. Post bar food in Canada consists of pizza; here it is delicious thin pancakes filled with almost anything you can think of. Yum! We did attempt to walk home at this point but masses of bloaks (men of an appropriate age!) where milling about and well, I’m sure you can guess we didn’t leave right away!
A group from London, out for a stag weekend were pretty entertaining and were key players in my escape from a random drunken Scot who decided he wanted to marry me and therefore needed to serenade me with a Canadian song. HA! As he fumbled with his phone to google lyrics we snuck off. Poor schmuck! I rolled into bed that morning around 6:30am.Keener tourists were already starting to fill the Grassmarket for the next day’s events.
On Monday I was feeling a bit down and lonely watching mobs of people having fun, no doubt on their way to some great show or bar. My lonely self ventured out of my flat and joined in on a free walking tour only to later discover that the guide was from Edmonton! I though he sounded like a fraud!!
During the tour though I discovered the place where J.K. Rowling sat to write the first two Harry Potter books and where she got her inspiration. She could see the castle from the window of the café and Heriot Watts school (the original Hogwarts) and a few of the character names came from Grey Kirks cemetery, which is across the street from the cafe. We actually found a McGonagall and a Tom Riddle headstone!
Dorky fact aside, I’m impressed with my ability to make friends. A bunch of us, including the fraud named Owen, a couple Aussies and some Canadians named Amy and Marissa went for dinner and a night of drinking, (yes this seems to be becoming a habit).Good times for all and some new friends made.
Tuesday- Slept late then met my Granny at Cameron Toll, her favorite shopping spot to help her get some groceries. Trundled home on the bus to get ready for dinner at the Buchanan’s, our family friends. David and Pat’s son Stuart and his new wife from the Caribbean Nanjika were also there. Nice to catch up!
Met up with my new Canadian friends for a beer after, but I discovered quickly the beer was not going down very well and I felt sick. Most of the night was spent squirming around in mass discomfort and nausea on the futon mattress, which up until this point was just mostly uncomfortable, was now unbearable. That night I discovered my utter hatred for lumpy hard futons, a hatred which was deepened by a 2 hour vomiting session in the bathroom and the entire day following in which I was forced to spend in bed due to feeling like death. Scottish bug, food poisoning, swine flu- not sure. All I know is I felt like hell.
Yesterday, I went to Ikea with Fiona and Holly, my other cousin, and her wee Jack Russell puppy named Henry to buy a new mattress. Getting it up the 3-story spiral concrete staircase was comical and I think should have been a Fringe Festival show. I have no doubt in my mind that people would have paid 5 pounds to watch “Three Lairds, a dog and a mattress” and would have walked away very satisfied. I am satisfied with my new mattress, especially if the 24 hour “barfs” appear again! Here is Fiona wrestling with the mattress to get it up the stairs!
