A Rum Experience- The island, not the drink!

The emergence of spring increased my enthusiasm for a new adventure! It was perfect timing for our Ecology Field Study course on the Isle of Rum, which is in the Inner Hebrides. The island is National Nature Reserve and internationally recognised and protected for it’s unique features. We stayed in the island hostel, located in what were the servants quarters in Kinloch castle (yup that’s right, a castle!) built in 1897 by George Bullough. For such a smart guy (so we were told), George sure made a few poor decisions. For example, he wanted a pink castle (a questionable fact in itself!), so sandstone was used to build it. An incredibly porous rock in one of the wettest places in the UK….hmm! Needless to say, the castle is now falling apart.

Our tour of the inside of the castle, which is exactly the way George's wife Lady Monica left it before selling it to the Nature Conservancy, shows his excessive nature and might I say horribly tacky decorating style! He would entertain his rich friends frequently and was dedicated to giving his guests the best experience. Perhaps this explains why a book a book about Rum describes the ballroom as the orgy room! To give the guy some credit though, he did install hydropower on the mountain side, which to this day provides the 30 permanent residents and the castle with most of its power. That is pretty impressive!

Upon first glance of the week’s schedule, the course resembled ecology boot camp. We definitely were on the go the whole time, but what an incredible experience! Everyday involved hiking around the island to do some sort of study, from bird surveys and bog plants, (Ashley fell waist deep in this bog aswell!) to fresh and salt-water invertebrates. We discussed the unique qualities and adaptations species have to live on the small island while examining them under microscopes and exploring their relevance in terms of ecosystems. All the while, we covered how we as educators can help connect people with the incredible processes that make the planet function. Human history of the island and relevant stages of Scottish history that made Rum what it is today was explored while sitting in the ruins of a black house where families actually lived. Learning this way had the power to transform what some may see as boring history into a fascinating and moving experience. This is authentic education!

On day 4, we hiked up Hallival, a mountain that sits at about 2800 feet above sea level. This task had been on all our minds since we arrived on the island, as Hallival could be seen from everywhere and it did not look like a walk in the park! Just as we convened outside the castle for this highly anticipated adventure, ready with compasses, maps and packs full of extra clothes, a girl staying in the hostel sauntered up to Pete my professor and asked if she could join us. Under an uncontrolled and astonished laugh, he pointed out that her attire of Ugg boots (glorified slippers), skirt and purse were not appropriate to climb this mountain. Upon insisting, “she was used to hiking this way” Pete said he could not stop her from follow our route up the mountain, but he was not taking any responsibility for her safety. This encounter was a big reality check for all of us about the safety, legal, and professional practice issues that occur for teachers in the outdoors.

At 9 pm as the sun went down, we began our ascent. Now you may think hiking to the top of a mountain at night is crazy, but there was logic to the madness. One goal was to get to the top without using our headlights. Our eyes just adjusted to the slow decrease of light and it was shockingly easy, and I might add very empowering, to get to the top this way! This also gave us time to practice night navigation. However, the headlight of our friend in Uggs could occasionally be seen scrambling over rocks about 100 meters below us. She affectionately became know as Gollum from Lord of the Rings. Somewhere between 1000 and 1500 feet, we stopped seeing her light (no worries though, we did see her in the hostel the next day!).

Another reason for hiking at night was to witness birds that are active after sundown. About 25% of the worlds population of Manx Shearwater seabirds convene on the peak every night due to the unique geology. Just as we began to feel like we were the only souls around for miles, the noises began. Slowly a bird orchestra developed. We could only make out the faint silhouettes of the birds flying around our heads and around our feet. The air was moving around us. Occasionally, a birdcall right at our feet would signal we should stop walking. Fat and happy birds just sat on the ground protecting their burrows/ nests in the soft rock and soil. We all sat in silence in the dark for sometime, feeling very humbled and lucky to experience another species world. Aurora Borealis lite up the sky before we headed down the mountain. Getting to bed at 3:30 am never felt better!

A happy Manx Shearwater- although perhaps not so happy about the flash!

The following day was spent in Kilmory, on the north part of the island, discussing the Red deer population that have been heavily studied. Ever heard of carnivorous deer? Then meet the Rum deer. They eat each other’s antlers and bones and eat our beloved Manx Shearwaters! The theory is there is not enough calcium in the soil on the island due to massive human influences, so they adapted. But the population is very weak. The fact that the researchers hoard the skulls and antlers in a shed may have something to do with this! This blows my mind!

But where there are deer, there are also ticks. The tick I discovered on my leg that night also blew my mind. My first tick experience would not have been so dramatic, if I hadn’t looked at one under a high-powered microscope the day before! All I could think about was its nasty little head under my skin enjoying a feast. Gross.

The day before we left the island was our only free day, and a few of us really wanted to see as much of the island as possible. So instead of a relaxing day swimming in the sea, we went for a 17 mile hike! We left the hostel at 7:30am and reached Bloodstone hill on the west side of the island by 11:00am. We then made our own path towards Harris on the south west side where George, his wife Lady Monica and George’s father John are buried. On the way we spotted, highland cows, goats, Red deer and a Golden Eagle. The sun was shining and it was a great day. Although I think Ashley had a different opinion after she fell in to yet another bog!

I was pretty sure my legs were going to fall off on the last 2 miles back to the castle. But the sense of satisfaction and accomplishment as we sat down for dinner with friends and our teacher that night was immeasurable. Saying goodbye to Rum was difficult. I didn’t think it was possible to become so connected to a place in such a short time. I suppose when you know and understand the ecosystem, history, geology, folklore and the people who rely on the landscape a place has much more meaning and you become invested in the future of the place. This, of course, will be the point of what we do.

Here is a short video of the Orchestrium inside the castle playing a tune. It was made to resemble a 30 piece orchestra. I can't figure out how to turn the video upright so I'm afraid you will just have to watch and listen sideways. Sorry!

Thanks to Christy, Anna and Ashley for taking a few awesome shots used on this page!